Some of the general questions that arise when considering buying or repairing an air conditioning and heating system
The heating and cooling systems are sized according to their tonnage. One (1) ton equals 12,000 BTU/H. Residential systems can vary between 1 to 5 tons.
Contrary to popular belief there’s no rule of thumb for sizing a system to a home. Depending upon the construction of your home, one (1) ton of air conditioning can cool anywhere from 300 to 800 square feet of the home. The only way to ensure the size of the system you purchase will be large enough to cool your home, but not any larger than you need, is to have your home’s heating and cooling needs to be appraised by a licensed professional.
The S.E.E.R. (seasonal energy efficiency ratio) is the amount of cooling your system will deliver per dollar spent on electricity. For example, a 3-ton unit may have a S.E.E.R. efficiency rating of 13, 14, or 15. The higher the S.E.E.R., the more efficient the system will be. The S.E.E.R. rating of any given unit will vary between 13 to 17.
The most important thing you can do is clean and replace your filters frequently. Also, a system heats and cools more evenly when the blower is in the “on” position. The blower provides continual air movement throughout the home and allows for better filtration. Finally, shades, drapes, shutters, or screens should be installed on windows that are exposed to extreme sunlight.
No. A larger system with more capacity delivers less comfort and is more expensive to operate. An air conditioner is at its least efficient when first turned on. A system with too much capacity will run in numerous short cycles, turning on and off repeatedly, therefore causing it to be less efficient. Also keep in mind that an air conditioner only removes humidity when it’s running, so a system with shorter run cycles doesn’t remove humidity from the air very well.
There is no exact answer for how long your system should run during each cycle. The average air conditioner is sized to remove the heat from your home as fast as it comes in on a 110° day. Therefore, ideally, on a 110° day the system should be able to cope with the incoming heat, but not gain on it and be able to turn off. The cooler it is below 110°, the more the system will cycle on and off.
Every time your system starts up, it will use a lot of electricity and not produce much cooling. Usually, a system that is too small to cool the home is more economical to run but delivers less comfort. Even though it runs nonstop, it will usually consume less power than a larger system that cycles on and off. As a rule of thumb, a unit that stays on or off is less expensive than one cycling between on and off.
The air temperature your system produces depends on the temperature of the air going into the system. Generally, the air produced should be 18°-20° below what enters the system. So, if the air entering the system is 80°, the air exiting should be about 60°-62°. However, that only works on a system that has been running for at least 15 minutes on a warm, dry day with a home that is about 80° inside. On a mild day, with an indoor temperature in the low 70s, or during humid conditions, the air coming out may only be 15°-17° cooler than the air coming in.
The time of year becomes a big factor for desired temperature settings. In the summer months, the average temperature setting is 78°-80°, in the winter 70°-72° seems to be the most common setting. Remember to avoid drastic temperature changes if you plan to leave your house. Do not set your temperature back more than 5°; this will cause your unit to work harder to achieve the desired temperature setting.
Different programmable thermostats offer a diverse range of features. However, because they are electronic, they are all more accurate and efficient than thermostats that contain mercury. With programmable thermostats, you can control the temperature in your home at different times of the day without ever touching your thermostat. Because everything is automatic, you will never forget to change the setting on your own.
For optimum efficiency and filtration, we advise that you replace your disposable filters at least once a month. If you have washable filters, they should be cleaned once a month.
The most important maintenance you can do is to change your filters regularly. Ground-mounted outdoor units should be kept away from debris, clutter, weeds, or landscaping that can grow too close and reduce the airflow to the unit. Also, keep pets away from the unit because pet urine can cause expensive damage. Use caution with a weed trimmer around the unit to prevent damaging control wiring. Any additional maintenance should only be performed by qualified personnel.
You should have maintenance performed on your air conditioning system twice a year. This not only ensures maximum efficiency but also enables us to foresee any possible problems that may occur shortly. Our Comfort Assurance Program (CAP) plan is specifically designed to keep your air conditioning system running at its peak efficiency year-round.
Yes. Make sure that your air handler or furnace is plugged in. Check that the breakers and the disconnects are turned on and be sure the thermostat is set correctly.
Due to the many different makes, models, and customer needs, price is an individual issue that can only be solved by doing a thorough evaluation of your home and existing equipment. There is no charge for an in-house replacement proposal.
Yes. Several manufacturers have developed new systems that contain the environmentally friendly R410A, or Puron, refrigerant. Visit our products page to see our entire line of Puron products.
Yes, they can play a big part in your complete home comfort. We have a wide range of whole-house filtration devices. Some electronic air cleaners can even remove dust particles and pollen as small as .10 microns. Visit our products page for more information about the electronic air cleaners we offer.
No. Closing the registers will decrease the system’s airflow and efficiency. Every system is designed to cool a certain number of square feet. By closing registers and doors in particular rooms, you disrupt the airflow and make your air conditioning system work harder to distribute air to other areas in your home. Your system will work harder to cool less space, making it cycle more and run less efficiently.
When cool outdoor air enters a home it tends to dry out as it warms up, which increases the static electricity in the home and can cause sinus issues. Adding a humidifier will help to add moisture back into the air and limit sinus problems. In the summer, even with outdoor relative humidity hovering around the single digits, the humidity in your home tends to be around 40%. The average comfort range for relative humidity in a home is between 35 to 45%.
Yes, this is normal. A heat pump generally produces air that is 80°, which is considered warm and will heat the house evenly. However, 80° may feel cool to the touch, since your hand is usually closer to 90°.
Before purchasing a replacement system, you should always make sure your system is sized properly. Our representative will perform a heat load calculation to determine the proper size and make the appropriate recommendation. Remember, bigger is not always better.